Post "Walking Coffee table 3D files, Code, Build Guide" by "Concept Bytes" from patreon

Ross

Back at this project after taking a break. For the dividers on the laser cut guide-- what's the difference between divider_mount_spacer and divider_motor_mount? I see the difference in the bottom holes but I'm not sure when to use mount_spacer and when to use motor_mount

Kevin Coda

This has been updated in manual v2

Kevin Coda

I have a larger printer. I use a kobra 2 max. Let me know if cutting and gluing works too. Im sure it would!

Andrei Finski

also, I think it will be helpful to add the number of parts for things like dividers, trim pieces, crank shafts etc

Andrei Finski

looking at the model, the diameter is 10.16mm for most of the parts where the smaller bearings are expected, close to 0.4" which is smaller than both sizes mentioned

Andrei Finski

I'm working on v2 model, got 1/2 x 1-1/8 x 5/16 Inch and 1/4 x 5/8 x 0.196 inch.

Kevin Coda

Hi, can you be a bit more specific. Are you using V1 or V2 files. Which bearings? there are 2 sizes one is about 2 times bigger than the other.

Andrei Finski

doesn’t look like the bearings line up to the holes in the models (like 2 times bigger) should we heat them up and press still?

Andrei Finski

where have you got the tabletop from? cannot find affordable options

Amélie Hébert

Amazing! Great work for the V2, there's a lot more details. I'm just wondering for this step: Insert legs and ankle. We need to put the bearings inside, and then do we really need to screw in the M5x20mm screws on both sides of the legs? It appears a little more unstable then just one part of metal rod that goes on one side through the other.

Andrei Finski

some suggestions on the tabletop would be great, as well as more info on joystick assembly

Kamanaonui

I used 5mm shaft and bearings entirely and have a rather large collection of orphan parts from the first BOM. I printed a few test sets but finally went back to de Carpentier's linkage and created my own models. Watch the video very closely and slowly several times. "Magic" happens in a few places. They did just release V2 of the instructions which might help some.

Kevin Coda

All the V2 files are located in v2.zip

Kevin Coda

The new build guide is a work in progress. Its a lot more than the old one, so please let me know where I should go into more detail or whats missing!

Andrei Finski

amazing! makes me to get back to it

Kevin Coda

Hey everyone! If you didn't already see I just launched V2. This table is fully 3d printable and redesigned with an all new look! The build guide has been updated to include much more information and an even better breakdown of the build process. Let me know what you think!

Carlos Ayala

ahhh yeah, those don't work either. Take a look at 5:26. If you are gonna use the bearings on the dividers, the flange needs on one side a hole for the 8mm rod, and the other 5mm (to be used with the small bearings)

Amélie Hébert

Thanks for your answer! I need to make some adjustments anyway (I try to make a version 50% smaller than the original). I found smaller bearings that have a good fit. The part i'm not quite sure to understand is how to assemble the pieces that are presented during 3:32-3:36 of the video.

Carlos Ayala

The project seems kind of abandoned... I found there is plenty of adjustments needed (for example, when I built mine, the thighs touch each other, I had to redesign that part... or the connectors don't fit the dividers) To have a better idea how all parts fit together, take a look at the video

Amélie Hébert

*** Help*** Hi! I'm having trouble to assemble all the pieces together. Is there anyone of you have better pictures of the steps? I would be very grateful!

Kamanaonui

I was going to use a milling machine to make them but decided to do some shopping first. I adjusted my part models to use off the shelf parts. Now for some software.

HADEER

perfect project please i need your help i downloaded all files but can you send every size of all pieces and number of it i will do it manual

Carlos Ayala

Right, that's a way of doing it... in the end I used a Dremel and made a removed some material on the motor side, just 2 or 3mm, enough to secure the damn thing with the screw. I didn't think of Aliexpress for the "D shaft".... I was manually filing them, which is less than ideal to maintain the same angle on both sides. Thanks for the tip !

Kamanaonui

Lol... Forget that 8mm radial load bearing shown at the motor and mount the coupling flange on the crankshaft so it protrudes out. ( It might seem to be asking a lot from 4 small mounting screws but it's relatively low speed and torque in a machine made of plastic and plywood. ) I drilled a hole up from the bottom of the panel so I could access the set screw. BTW, the 120 degree offset between the leg pairs will slip when the table meets resistance if the only thing holding them apart is a set screw on a round shaft. ( You could file / machine a flat spot on the shaft once you figure out where . ) On the original Carpentopod, the offsets are produced by two oriented D shaped holes in a single metal plate. You can find 5mm D shafts on AliExpress. You can also buy 5mm steel pins in various lengths. Hope this helps.

Kevin Coda

Woah, you are cooking! This is the furthest I have seen. Let me know if you need any help or hit any walls. I am releasing V2 soon, likely aligning with some of the adjustments you found.

Brian Hoffman

Making progress on the build. I have been having to make a lot of adjustments to the design to get things to work. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LRP5hPRXDzS6uw7v9

Carlos Ayala

How the hell did you manage to attach the motor shaft to the crankshaft? Mine is 15mm as well and there is no way 😅

Andrei Finski

for big stl models like bridge - do you guys use 350mm+ bedded printers or cut and glue them?

Kamanaonui

Davide, I found watching the video a few times helped me get this concept moving in my own workshop. But I just consider the files a rough sketch. The de Carpentier linkage contains the only critical dimensions. I printed a few of their parts to calibrate the scale but I'm working from my own part models and BOM now.

andrew barry

Yes, some more detail in the assembly manual is needed. Is there a CAD Assembly model of the whole project? That would really be helpful!

Kamanaonui

That should work fine. I found something similar in a 5 pack on Amazon. Update: I found a power bank on sale at Target. Two 2000mA Li-ion batteries and a charging and boost circuit for $6. ( No one ships individual Li-ion batteries to Hawai'i. ) I decided to use a Xiao BLE for the joystick. Much smaller, cheaper , has a built-in battery charger and doesn't need a 5V boost.

Carlos Ayala

maybe one of these instead? https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32793055741.html?channel=twinner

Kamanaonui

The Li-ion charger / boost for the remote joystick is no longer available via Amazon. Sparkfun still sells it for $17.50 USD. Sadly ( for me ) they want an additional $16.50 to ship it to Hawaiʻi... from Colorado.

XAVI RODRIGUEZ MARTORELL

Does anyone know the connections for the motors and the controller?

Davide Tampellini

Can you please create some kind of documentation? I'd really wish to start doing it, but I'm reading that a lot of adjustments need to be done for the 3D printed version

Kamanaonui

Lol...I'm also up to 174 - 5mm bearings and almost as many shim washers. I haven't used an 8mm bearing yet.

Carlos Ayala

in that case, I have myself another large supply. Maybe we can sell in bulk... Time to order some 5mm ones I guess !

Kamanaonui

No.. For the 3d printed version , I needed 5mm flanges for everything but the 8mm motor crankshaft connection. But now I have a large supply of 8mm flanges and bearings for something someday.

Carlos Ayala

Question... ankles and thighs get together through the shaft and the flange in it. In the video I can see the axle that goes though the flange is 8 mm... however, the holes in ankles and thighs are meant for the 5mm bearing. Am I wrong here ?

Tullio Conte

Hi, good jobs but is needed document with the measurements or the original files is necessary because the thickness of the wood is not the same for everyone.

Brian Hoffman

I am in process of building this. Does anyone have a good 3dPrint STL for the joystick housing? I didn't see it included in the files.

Kamanaonui

I let my modified leg set run continuously for 48 hours and it didn't tear itself apart. Average power draw was about 1.5 watts but that is just legs waving in the air. I still have a few very minor mechanical changes to make. The legs should be thinner as they slap together slightly. But I'm where I would like to see that PID based motor controller software that they show and talk about in the video instead of what was posted on GitHub two months ago.

Carlos Ayala

I just tried and downloaded just fine... maybe try a different browser?

Troyseph

Hello, im having trouble downloading the PDF it just spits out a chrome PDF document that I cannot open

Kamanaonui

Just tapping the threads directly into the PLA appears more robust than the inserts but the tight press fit of the flange seems to do most of the work . I've modified the design of most of my parts for fit and friction. Press fitting the bearings into PLA is very forgiving so I'm not as worried about tolerances as I would be in aluminum. Adding an internal shoulder for the bearing to rest on has been useful.

Carlos Ayala

For the 10mm bearings, I used a 0,2 mm correction in the "X-Y hole compensation" in the slicer (Bambu Studio or Orcaslicer) and it seems to be a good one. Let's see the rest of the parts... How did you solve the screws in the crankshaft flange? Did you use inserts in the end?

Kamanaonui

I've printed a leg set from the existing STL files this weekend. It's working but there are some changes needed to make it work well. The crankshaft appears to work best as a combination of 5mm and 8mm shafts rather than just 8mm. Fortunately, you can buy the flanges in both sizes. I left out the 8mm bearing between the motor and the crankshaft since the motor shaft is only 15mm long. Getting to the flange set screw was interesting. Hope this helps.

Kamanaonui

I'd be interested in seeing the next gen of the STL files as well. I printed the back leg in PLA for test and am finding the bearing holes are about 9.3mm for a 10mm bearing. I printed the crankshaft and the hole diameter was within .2mm and I could " press fit " the steel flange into it. Arbor press the bearings or drill them out a little?? I'm also curious as to how do deal with the screws in the crankshaft flange. The flange has a really snug fit and I can see screws glinting on both sides in your video. 6-32 taps directly into the PLA or I could do a heatset insert for M3. Internal shoulders for the bearings to bottom out on would be pretty handy as well.

ASel RuzGar Akgul

Hello, thank you for this project. It would be better if you add the 3D step project file. It is easier to make revisions for products with the thickness we can find. I import it, but the dimensions in mm are very different.

Kevin Coda

They should be attached to the bottom of this post

Doc

Carlos Ayala

Any deadline for v2 of the STL files? I’ve been waiting for that to start printing. If you are busy with other projects or work, it is completely understandable, but I’d appreciate just a comment to either start or wait. Thanks !!

Davide Tampellini

Hello, can we get a proper assembly manual? Honestly it feels a bunch of notes put together. I can understand this was a massive task for you, but you should trace back your steps and help other people doing that. Moreover, some code on the parts would help (code + version), so it's easier to reference them

UPMG

Seria ótimo usar um aplicativo via celular para controlar.

XAVI RODRIGUEZ MARTORELL

Thanks a lot!!!

Carlos Ayala

https://www.handsontec.com/dataspecs/module/7A-160W%20motor%20control.pdf

XAVI RODRIGUEZ MARTORELL

Could you pass me the data sheet for the controller please.

Carlos Ayala

Unless I am missing something, I just see the remote controller wiring diagram. Anyway, I found the data sheet for the motor controller and I will wire it to an ESP32

XAVI RODRIGUEZ MARTORELL

The wiring diagram is in the Walking Coffee Table Guide (3).pdf document that is shared.

Carlos Ayala

I already have all the components for the electronics... any chance you could upload the table wiring diagram, please ? So I can start testing while waiting for v2.0 of the STLs. Thanks !!

XAVI RODRIGUEZ MARTORELL

Muchas Gracias

XAVI RODRIGUEZ MARTORELL

Yes, I do. It will be great if you provided me with the link.

Carlos Ayala

Este es: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005007384635440.html?channel=twinner

Carlos Ayala

For what I could see in the video, the boost is this one ( search in Aliexpress for: LM2596 LM2577 DC Auto Boost Buck Converter 4-35V a 1-25V ) For the joystick, look for "joystick Arduino" and there are a few that will show up. As you mention, it would be nice to have the table wiring diagram !

Kamanaonui

Since I am also CNCʻing instead of laser, Iʻve been consolidating the 1/4" parts into 1/2" ones to reduce the part count. Also, not really needing a coffee table, Iʻm changing the scale so it doesnʻt clutter up my workshop.

Carlos Ayala

Xabi, do you live in Spain? If that's the case I got the controller from Aliexpress delivered in approximately a week. I can give you the link if needed

XAVI RODRIGUEZ MARTORELL

Hi everyone! The project currently uses this motor controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2RBXTYL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title I was wondering if I could switch to the L298N DC Motor Driver Module since the original one is not available in my country.. This is the amazon link: https://www.amazon.es/HiLetgo%C2%AE-Bridge-Stepper-Controller-Arduino/dp/B07CHBRF4Z/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=K6L9YAOYS4T1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.PH39E8u5GQj4o-ey1H2PfdntRwquxh73mlaTV_OPBu-NKuzyIAnxWOmFJ6sOOvmpT9mNZYq_uu0_9tmEw-QiPGVfVp6EyYtqszyKtAY9UxAaRPLpv9pF0TXkOl2nefYe6uyi_lrwWmB6vgQy4Ljet4IQTsNAR0yphTurGZ41aBTa4Pt-zTuId-jXD0hA1cE8KfX0G4iGitN0oYzTm9-ufK63a0Xd_SxRQdf7943hY9hlynoEqWswtLPnTxTgDUOauDR5pZvWsNt-wZx-GLo3AC4sy5krwwohtfqV1HP5_WE.P9529Xd3oV3RQhqe90mdpZtUQvnqa95UQzCgtHmQMPk&dib_tag=se&keywords=L298N+DC+Motor+Driver+Module&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1731502177&sprefix=l298n+dc+motor+driver+module%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1) This is the Datasheet for the new controller: https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/l298.pdf Does anyone know if the L298N would be compatible with my setup, or if there would be any issues or adjustments required for the switch? Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks!

Jack

would it be possible to get hands on the actual cad files not the stl i know you are onshape so could you make them public or just include them in the files you provided

Jack

also the divvders you can used 15% infill with pla it is strong enough to hold up the model and cuts down on material used and print and allows it to move as mine is moving around and hasnt broken yet

Jack

also just a little suggestion for something to look in for i would made the divider middles just as thick as the motor mount divider this will cut down on time as currently with the files you've given you would have to print two divider middles to connect one leg to another but if you double the thickness then you will only have to print 3 instead of 5 and the stability of the full assembly will be greatly improved and more easily assembled but if im missing something and there is a good reason you have to print two then glue them together then let me know i know i can be a little thick sometimes

Kevin Coda

V1 are staying here and won’t change for laser cutting

Ross

I wanted to ask if you can keep up versions of V1 for the archive, since I have only laser cut about half of the parts (don't want to laser cut too much before I lose track of all of the parts!)

Kevin Coda

I am hoping to add the V2 files this week. These will only be STLs as they are parts that can't be laser cut.

Carlos Ayala

Great !! Thanks for the heads up... I will wait to start printing then :)

Kevin Coda

V2 files will be added to this post soon!

Kevin Coda

Yes there will be different files in V2. Its mainly a cosmetic change. Ive been designing it to look sleeker and creepier. There are some changes to the way its assembled. I am still in the process of printing this all the way so I am working out some kinks with that process.

Carlos Ayala

I am about to start 3D printing. Are the STLs gonna change in V2 ? Thanks !

Kevin Coda

Yes that is intentional. In the old build they were different files, but I have updated it to be the same. This actually works better and allows for a larger range of step. I am also working on dropping V2 of these files which will include some cosmetic changes but these two leg parts are the same.

Kevin Coda

Hi, If you are looking for dimensions you might want to look at the STL files. Those are dimensioned. If you put them into a CAD program with a measuring tool you should be able to get any dimension you want to check. The table area is about 14inx40in. The largest part is the dividers which are about 13inx13in This project could be done with 12mm ply. Its actually scalable to any thickness. You have a few options here. You can either make all the same parts I made, just at 12mm instead of 7mm and then all the legs would be thicker (which is not bad) or you can use fewer slices/spacers Personally I would try to replicate the same parts I use with 12mm and make the legs thicker. I am working on a thicker version anyway

Seema

Hey, 1st of all a big thanks for providing the STL and SVG files. I am thinking of taking up this project. However, I am new to CNC and was wondering what would be the dimensions (is there details about dimensions available anywhere), that I should be providing for the CNC cuts (I don't see any dimensions in the SVG files). Also, could I use a 12mm ply rather than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) ply as later is not readily available for me. Is there any guidance you can provide to me on using 12mm; like which parts need to be on 1/4 inch ply and where I could use 12 mm ply?

Ross

Thank you! Just to clarify, though, I took a look at both the leg_front and leg_back svg files and they appear to be identical. Is this intentional?

Kevin Coda

Leg should be updated!

Ross

Oh! Also, leg front is still missing from the laser cutting files. I'll have my axles soon, so the only thing I'll be waiting on is the front leg files.

Ross

Thank you! That's what I figured from the video, but I wanted to make certain before using up all my leg bearings.

Kevin Coda

Hey! Good luck with your build. I used 4 bearings per leg. So I guess 2 per hole

Ross

I'm slowly gluing the legs and ankle pieces, but I am just a little uncertain about the leg bearing sections. For anyone else at that part, did y'all use two leg bearings per hole on the leg/ankle/thighs, or did you just use one?

Cesare Donadono

Hi everyone, I noticed a couple of issues with the manual. It seems like the section on “table wiring” is missing. Additionally, there isn’t a link provided to purchase the joystick or the step-up boost buck converter. Could someone provide guidance on the wiring, or share which precise components to buy? Thanks to everyone

Kevin Coda

Ill look into this issue. Good catch! My first print ended up fitting but the tolerance might be different for others. I am adjusting the design to make sure it fits for everyone

Carlos Ayala

Any update on the video will be available? Thanks !!

Carlos Ayala

Such a cool project. I just got here and will start 3D printing and ordering parts this week. I am pretty sure I'll be back with some questions ;)

Jack

just for everyone who is 3d printing everything for this project the connectors and bridges little insert do not fit inside the holes for them in the ribs or dividers they're only off by a mm or so. I would recommend printing the ribs first then getting the hole dimensions and designing your own connectors and bridges from there, besides these issues everything else fits perfectly.

Kevin Coda

I’ll check on that and get back to you.

Kamanaonui

It's a lovely part for 3D. I modified your table design to use 1/2" plywood and converted the STL to an SVG this weekend. Your SVG would be a fit check for me but handy for those using an Xtool / XCarve. . Referring to the Carpentier linkage diagram, what scale factor are you using for part lengths?

Kevin Coda

No problem, this is a work in progress so I want to keep it a living document. I am still having issues with my own walking table so I am updating solutions accordingly. I appreciate the patience. Lots more to come. I am 3D printing this entire project right now so I am learning new stuff every day!

Kevin Coda

This is something I have only 3D printed so I do not have an SVG for it, but I can make one quick and add it. It is a 3D part so I would take a look at the STL closely before making it. Just a heads up

Kevin Coda

This is something I am working on right now! Yes it would be possible and would cut down on 1 Arduino, battery and charger. This would be a much better solution. Ill update it here when its finished!

Barlow

Do you have a step by step video on how to assemble it

John Dollard

Might it be possible to use a phone app to control the table rather than constructing a joystick? (beyond my knowhow I'm afraid)

Ryan Walker

Hmm, I'm not able to find the Leg_front.svg yet. Did that file get added? Thanks so much Concept Bytes for your work on this, it's really appreciated.

Kamanaonui

Would you folks add shaft.svg to the file list? I'm nesting the other parts for a CNC run and that one is missing.

Kamanaonui

Thanks... I also noticed the " wall " panels used to retain the axles in the laminated plywood parts are not present in the 3D printed parts. Epoxy the axles? BTW, I like the flange holder design for the crankshafts and can hardly wait to see the SVG - laminated plywood version.. :-)

Ross

Wanted to say thank you to Concept Bytes for being so responsive and for updating the build guide regularly.

Davide

Beautiful project, really good. However, I would like to know if a more complete assembly guide will come out. For example how the legs are connected to each other. Thank you hello

Kevin Coda

You will need to scale it proportionally. IE keeping the distance ratios to all the joints the same. This will help you keep the same walking pattern. You should be able to just scale all the parts by the same amount. Just make sure you do not scale in one direction. All parts will have to be bigger in the X and Y directions.

Kevin Coda

Yes, I will get right on this asap!

Kevin Coda

Updated in the build manual with all the lengths. There is now a section on axles. Will add more to that soon. These are unthreaded as there are set screws in all the flanges

Kevin Coda

Absolutely, all updates will be made here. Working on publishing the in-depth video asap! Was not ready for the response this project got. My apologies!

Tomas Riabovas

Hi, are you able to provide the lengths for the 5mm and 8mm axles? Are these going to be double threaded? Thanks.

Kevin Coda

Update: I have reuploaded with the corrections! There are 3 types of dividers -End which has an all flat side. -Middle (You will need 2 of these per side) -MotorMount (This should include holes to mount your motor)

Kevin Coda

Will update right away, sorry for missing this

Kamanaonui

Divider_middle.stl is the only one that has the bearing and axle holes in it. No motor mounting holes. The other two divider panels are identical and blank.

floyd

Leg_Front.svg is missing

Ross

Thank you for the advice on rod stock, Kamanaonui! I'm planning on making the project out of plywood but I might start with scaled down 3d printed versions to see how they fit.

Kamanaonui

Iʻll be using my CNC to make most of the parts so I spent the day comparing the two file sets and dissecting the video for assembly tips. Using 1/4" plywood layers is convenient for CNC and laser cutting but adds to the part count and the complexity of the assembly process. The foot glueup in the guide is a great example. Adding that for the other parts and maybe a leg assembly dwng? Aside from lengths and total amounts, the CB video is very good for showing how to make axles from 5mm and 8mm rod stock. I ordered some from Amazon. Do not buy hardened rod stock.

Ross

Seconding this. The feet make sense and are explained well, but I am unsure what to do with the other parts. Additionally, the video talks about custom axels--is this something we have to do too, or do you (Concept Bytes) have a suggestion on where we can get proper axels? They are not in the bill of materials.

Kamanaonui

You have a quantity breakdown for the 110 3d printed parts. Could you add a breakdown for the 360 CNC / Laser cut parts? I'm parsing the project into 3D printed parts, CNC parts and parts I can make by hand.

Kamanaonui

The BOM motor link is to the " might work if you have super low friction" 160RPM motor instead of the 80RPM motor. Thanks for adding the PWM. Which buck boost did you use?

pedro ospina

Can you please update the explaining video here?

chris smith

That's great thank you I will download the new one later. Don't panic about the DWG cad files I have done it. Happy to send you set if you want dxf as well ?

Kevin Coda

I added this to the guide. Thank you for pointing that out. There is a new link in there for where I got it. Will continue updating as we go!

Kevin Coda

Code is linked in the description above

chris smith

Hi might I ask what amp size PWM controller do you recommend please?

chris smith

Hi Might I ask i have the files and a number of parts on order. This is an amazing project as We have a CNC at work might I ask do you have the files in DWG or DXF please sir ?

Kamanaonui

This dropped into my Instagram feed yesterday and so far I've read your build guide and the Carpentier blog. Tempting....Today's video answered a lot of questions though I'm sure I'll have a lot more as I digest the design and see what I have to order / make. Thanks for sharing...

Matt Howell

I'd like to build table at 30" height. Can you advise what to modify to make function as taller table?

Pierre

Hello, amazing project, can you share the assembly 3d cad please? Thank you

Minh Thành Nguyễn

please give me the code to control device. there files not include code.

Kermit77

ma a chi ha già fatto l'acquisto verranno mandati gli aggiornamenti?

Kermit77

Ciao, ho appena scaricato i tuoi file e volevo delle informazioni. Tutti i file stl sono da stampare in 3d e tutti i file SVG invece da fresare con cnc in legno? ma il controller no ha un guscio? MA DOVE TROVO IL CODICE DI ARDUINO? nei file non c'è... grazie

pedro ospina

I'm not very clear about the connection of the parts.

Deta Ward

Look forward to it thank you :)

Kevin Coda

The full video tutorial comes out this weekend. Sorry for the confusion I’ll update the guide to include that

Deta Ward

Do you have an ETA for a more detailed build guide or even a video tutorial? The BOM suggests bearings and flanges but the current guide doesn't suggest where they go or what is being used as axels between the parts

Kevin Coda

Arduino code is linked in the description above! I’ll add the files manually today if that helps

Minh Thành Nguyễn

please i have buying your post. but not include code of arduino

Kevin Coda

Hey! No bother. So they might be looking at the 2D files I am also providing. If you want to laser cut them you will need the 2D SVGs. Thats what I used. I cut everything out of 7mm of 1/4in birch ply wood. 6mm would work too. You could do any thickness technically. So long as you cut the right amount of parts. If the legs are each 4 pieces wide. then the foot needs 4 foot spacers so the leg can slot in. I hope that makes sense. I will be putting out a tutorial video very soon! Let me know if you have any other questions

Ney Torres

Sorry to bother. Im asking people to cut MDF, or wood with laser. They keep asking the deph of each piece. 3mm, 6mm? etc. witch I find weird because the file is 3d. but I guess when they cut they turn it into a 2d.

Kevin Coda

So sorry updating now!

Deta Ward

There doesn't appear to be a link to the arduino code for the table and the controller? The build guide is also pretty vague in terms of assembly, wiring and what you use as axels