squirrelf3d
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Cable chain Rev2 (Slightly Updated cable chain setup)
🕑 Added 2023-04-07 20:00:26 +0000 UTC- The last piece of the X chain which is printed, has a screw at an angle which makes it easier to install/remove even with cables installed. This is the "major" upgrade to this
- All the heat insert holes are updated with the new heat insert hole pattern which allows M3x4mm(length)x5mmOD & M3x4mm(length)x4.6mmOD
- The motor block now has a second model moving the switch 5mm left for slightly more move toward the left
- If you use that model you will likely need to change those settings, so that the nozzle at coordinate 0,0 is over the bed (tweak the values as needed, but have them match)
- [stepper_x]
- position_endstop: -5
- position_min: -5
- The Z chain bottom pieces, has both M3 and M4 T-nut options (you can keep using your current ones)
- An alternative chain setup where the chain goes toward the back instead of front (untested, but should work, unless the X motor is in the way)
- The chain mount on the Apollo side, is taller and skinnier, to allow extra X movement to the right (when using my X tensioner), but also is less stressful on the wires, as it allows a larger chain corner radius (this was already posted with the X tensioner, but should replace any old ones that are not this tall model)
For convenience:
- File also includes Reverse bowden pieces (mini clip and M6 pneumatic fitting)
- File also include BTT Smart filament sensor mount (also used as a reversed bowden) Aliexpress ~ Amazon
- File also includes Sunlu filament dryer piece for reverse bowden
STEP file in zip
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Where to buy (this is the same model as before)
- Befenybay R18 - Internal Size 10X11mm - Outside Open - amazon
- Befenybay R18 - Internal Size 10X15mm - Outside Open - amazon
- Can also be found on aliexpress
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A few other notes:
- Threaded heat inserts:
- M3x4mm(length)x5mmOD
- Or
- M3x4mm(length)x4.6mmOD
- The X motor block here doesn't use stock screws, but instead uses M3x35
- Highly recommend printing the left printed X chain link attached to the X motor block in PETG to allow some flex, PLA tends to break under flex.
- Highly recommend printing the motor block in PETG or other heat resistant Filament, just in case the motor runs hot, generally should be fine in PLA, so this is just to play it safe
- This X motor block allow motor upgrade with standard 24mm shaft
Comments
Squirrelf
Uses screws and T-nuts, I think I have an M3 and M4 model in there, so whichever
I have a really stupid question, but how do you fix the chains with the bottom? I have printed the parts you shared in the folder but I don't find the way to fixed. I saw your images as an example but still no clue how to fix the chains to the frame.
Thank you
