GordoTEK
patreon
Easiest Pan Cyan Grow TEK: No humidifier, no fan, no tent, no timers. Unmodified tote grow!
🕑 Added 2024-02-14 06:13:59 +0000 UTCI am really pleased with this TEK and I hope you love it, this is the easiest way to grow Pan Cyans and I recommend it to all. I may put out a longer vid showing the making of the substrate and all other steps but I wanted to put out a short version right away (click or tap the play button on the vid above, this is my first time using the new feature allowing me to directly upload a video to Patreon).
NEW: A top vendor in the US has created a complete kit matching my TEK that includes the recommended totes, a really cool new type of heater that is better than most aquarium heaters, the screen, enough substrate for a full size grow (9lbs of manure based substrate!), casing, and grains. They also have a separate refill kit too that has enough substrate for a full sized grow plus optional casing and sterile grains with injection port if you need those, this is a super convenient way to save time and the hassle of making big batches of substrate. I have worked with this vendor for years and they always send me samples to personally review and approve, everything I've reviewed has been great! Using the above links also supports the channel, so double win. If he is out of stock, you can get a manure/coir substrate that works from amazon, or try an older but compatible kit. For European readers, there is a new kit partner for you too (mycotrop), described toward the bottom of this post, use coupon code "GORDOTEK" to get a discount (they even sell liquid culture of my genetics!).
Below is a written version with more details but watch the video first. This is the easiest way to grow Pan Cyans and I highly recommend it to all. I should also point out that the same exact TEK works pretty well for natalensis but you might want to use a deeper tote for that species because it tends to grow taller. This TEK works in difficult conditions such as a cold dry room in Winter but is flexible enough to accommodate almost any conditions, and it also requires the least investment, you may laugh at how simple it is.
[Note: If you use any of my Amazon links it supports the work, even if what you buy has nothing to do with the link! “As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.” Also note that as with all of my videos, this work was done in a location where it is decriminalized and I suggest you do likewise, be safe!]
As usual, it starts with great genetics, if you haven't gotten a spore print from me yet and want one, I give them out for free to any patron, just private message me on here at patreon. Currently, the best pan cyan genetics that I know of are TTBVI (the story of where this cultivar came from is here for anyone that is interested). These genetics are now the six time winner (1st place) of the Cultivar Cup, the Denver Psychedelic Cup, the Island Cup, and the Entheon Cup and the cultivar holds the record for most potent mushroom in the known world based on HPLC potency testing. But beyond potency, it is also super aggressive which means rapid colonization, less contamination, and record fast times from spores to mature fruit bodies (it can be done in as little as 22 days!).
If you are a patron, you can get spores directly from me for free, just private message me. My spores are the top genetics in the known world, germinate fast, and have won numerous mycology competitions. They are also super clean, minimizing contam risk.
Once you have your spores, either make a spore syringe or put the spores to agar (I made videos showing both so I'm not going to go into detail about that here, follow the links if you need more info). I recommend the agar method for several reasons, there is benefit in isolating one set of genetics instead of growing lots of different genetics in a single grow which is what happens when you use a spore syringe, but both will work and the spore syringe method is actually faster and may be easier for a beginner. If using agar, I strongly recommend you make a laminar flow box (it's a pretty easy project and I've gotten overwhelmingly positive feedback from those that have built them, it works exceptionally well). I also want to mention that you only need to put a tiny, barely visible speck of spores at the center of each agar plate, and making 2 to 5 plates is enough. This means you can save the rest of your spores for backup purposes or future use -- a single small spore print can make dozens if not hundreds of agar plates!
For the grain spawn you can either use one large mason jar of the 1/2 gallon size (=64oz = 6 cups = 1500ml)
Or you can use the smaller 16oz widemouth jars, as long as the grand total of fully colonized grain spawn is somewhere around 64oz or 1500ml for the full size recipe (you can cut the recipe in half if you want to do a smaller grow). [The weight of the colonized grain spawn will be between 600g to 800g (1.3 to 1.7 lbs). Most will use volume and not weight, and a wide range can actually work, but 64oz is a decent target, you could use double that, or half that, and still potentially have good results either way.]
After you have your fully colonized grain spawn, its time to make the substrate. My preferred recipe is below, again you can cut all ingredients in half if you want to do a smaller grow (and again I want to point out that you can now BUY this if you don't feel like making it yourself see more info and links at the top of this post):
300g coco coir Just hydrate the coir first with 3000ml hot water (for doing a half recipe use 150g coir hydrated with 1500ml hot water). Put the coir in a bucket, pour the hot water over it, and let it sit for 45 minutes, cover the bucket during that time, its OK if it's soupy at the end). I generally start with hot tap water then microwave it for 10 minutes to get it very hot. [If you don't have a scale you can get a cheap one with great reviews so you probably should, but the volume of dry coir is approximately 8 cups if shredded/loosely packed.]
Vermiculite: approximately 1650ml (this is 7 cups, if using a 9x13 Pan to measure ingredients you can fill a cake pan half full)
Aged manure: approximately 3300ml (this is 14 cups, if using a 9x13 Pan to measure ingredients you can fill the pan full) Go to google maps and type "horse stable" into the search box). You don't want the fresh stuff, older is better. If you can't find a horse owner/stable within a reasonable drive, you can buy it online, some have successfully used the big box store cow manure or even chicken manure). Here's another option that may work. Amazon also has Black Kow which some say works fine. You can use the manure of any plant eating animal (besides horse and cow, some patrons have used tortoise, elephant, and even water buffalo manure).
1/4 cup gypsum (optional) (this is approximately 60ml)
Hot Tap Water: 1000 to 2000ml (poured over the top after all ingredients have been added, mix everything by hand slowly adding hot water until you reach field capacity, field capacity means if you grab a handful of substrate and gently squeeze barely any water drips out, if you squeeze hard water will stream out but it shouldn't be as wet as a saturated sponge).
To simplify, the above can be translated more generally to: 4 parts hydrated coir, 2 parts manure, 1 part vermiculite, plus a handful of gypsum.
[Note, another vendor also has a compatible kit (includes substrate and casing) but it will only be enough substrate for a smaller tote unless you buy two OR you could put the substrate into the trays included with the kit and then put those trays inside of the top tote instead of putting the substrate directly into the tote. The new vendor's kit matches my TEK exactly]
After the substrate is thoroughly mixed (you may use a 5 gallon bucket or a tote to mix it all together), load it into mycobags or jars and pressure cook for 70 minutes (time starts after pressure hits at least 15 PSI). I compared and found that I have lower contam rates when using coir (vs. straw) and sterilization so I don't pasteurize anymore. Optionally add a pair of foil wrapped tongs to the pressure cooker which will be used later for mixing the grain spawn into the substrate.
After allowing the substrate to cool (you can leave it in the pressure cooker overnight) you are ready to spawn. For this TEK you can use almost any size tote but you will need two of the same exact size. Shallow totes are highly recommended for optimal airflow and fresh air exchange. The tote I like is the Sterilite 41 Quart (39 L) Storage Box ($9.98 from Walmart or a lot more expensive on Amazon)
These are the long totes designed to fit under a bed. They also make a slightly less long version that still has 66% of the surface area you might want for space savings or less substrate (and they sell them 2 for $11 which is a good deal). Before using the tote I like to wipe it down with a disinfectant wipe, then lightly mist it with a dilute bleach solution, then let it dry inverted in front of a laminar flow box. But if you want to skip these precautions that's up to you.
After the tote and grain spawn are ready, shake up your grain spawn.
Then pour the sterilized substrate into your tote. Sprinkle the grain spawn evenly over the substrate. You can use the sterile tongs to mix the grain spawn into the substrate and spread everything out evenly across the tote. Use the tongs also to gently pat down the top surface until it is nice and smooth and level. I don't ever touch anything with hands (even gloved) anymore, the tongs only cost a couple dollars and its one simple way to reduce contamination risk:
You can optionally do all of this in front of a laminar flow box or simply work in the smallest room you have available and leave the laminar flow box running for an hour in that room before you begin the work (and during the work) - these are just additional precautions one can take to reduce the chances of contamination problems however you can also do the spawning in open air without taking precautions, its up to you. When you are finished mixing and smoothing, place the lid on the tote.
Now, with the understanding that Pan Cyans really like warmer temperatures and high humidity, take your other identically sized tote and add warm water to it until about half full. Then add an aquarium heater to the bottom set to 82F (28C):
Next place the tote containing the inoculated substrate (with lid still on) into the warm water tote with the aquarium heater:
Just leave it for the next 6 to 8 days and wait for full colonization, don't open the lid. You can occasionally check the water temp to make sure its in the low 80's, I like to use a laser temperature gun for this but any thermometer should work.
After full colonization (usually takes 6-8 days) it will look something like this:
Now you will want to make some casing mix (or buy it). Some people also use Jiffy Mix for this but if you go that route, make sure to buy the version that mostly contains Canadian sphagnum peat moss.
Pans Cyans Casing Layer Recipe:
2 quarts peat moss (or 2000ml)
2 quarts vermiculte (or 2000ml)
15g (or 2 TBSP) calcium hydroxide (pickling lime) (or 40g (or 5 TBSP) calcium carbonate) mixed into
1 quart water (or 1000ml)
[Note: You can use liter instead of quart without otherwise changing the recipe, and you really only need less than half this amount for one grow, I just make this amount so I always have some casing around when I need it but you can scale it down if you want. Also note that you may be able to get away with using nothing but vermiculite as the casing layer, I have not tried this myself but have read that it can work. If you bought an ingredient kit you will have enough casing mix for several grows.]
Combine ingredients and pressure cook at 15PSI or higher for 30 minutes. After it cools add it to the top of the colonized tote in a very thin (~1/4 inch or half cm) smooth even layer. I no longer touch it with my hands at all, I just carefully sprinkle it on as shown in the video:
Spray the casing layer down heavily with tap water after it is in place. From this point on we will be in fruiting conditions.
Now, you want plenty of fresh air exchange but you don't want the substrate to dry out, and you don't want to have to be spraying it with water constantly either. After some trial and error, what I discovered to work very well was to put a window screen over top of the tote (you can literally take one off of a window from your house if you want to, or you can buy some window screen mesh material and attach it to your tote with some binder clips.
By spraying both the casing layer AND both sides of the window screen, the relative humidity stays very high at all times and the casing layer will not dry out as long as you water it three times a day (when you wake up in the morning, when you get home from work or in the late afternoon, and when you go to bed at night). I also spray the underside of the tote lid with water and place it over the screen but at an angle, so two corners are exposed to the air (see the video):
Each time I water, I rotate the lid so the opposite corners are open. The wet lid and screen material combined never dry out completely between waterings and together maintain the very high humidity levels that pan cyans like while the shallow tote with open corners and warm water bath heating from below help provide the fresh air exchange that the species needs.
(this first flush was nearly 2 lbs or over 800 grams fresh weight)
Any time a gap is forming between the substrate and the tote you can pour a bit of water right into the gap. Also after a flush is harvested, pour about a 1/2 cup of water slowly and evenly across the substrate surface. It is hard to overwater, but if you do, it is also possible to just pick the tote up and gently tilt it over a toilet and let all excess water run out of the tote.
After the harvest I recommend you use tweezers to clean up the substrate surface, removing any damaged or aborted pins, stumps, or debris leftover after the harvest:
There is 8cm (or 3.2 inches) of headspace available between the substrate and the screen. Most of the fruit bodies did not get tall enough to touch the screen but the interesting thing is that it doesn't seem to really matter if they grow right up to the screen, they will basically just have no where to go from there but otherwise develop normally. I also grew natalensis in this same sized tote and that species grows even taller but still I got good results despite the caps pushing up against the top. I used no artificial lighting but the tote was near a window and indirect sunlight was enough. Also note that it is probably not important that there is a gap between the tote lid and screen since the lid is concave anyway and doesn't touch the screen.
Here is a picture of the second flush, not quite as dense but still very much a significant yield:
The third flush is significantly diminished and you can see the pins for the 4th flush in this pic as well which may produce a similar yield:
As for when to harvest, my rule of thumb is to wait until at least some of the caps are dropping spores, you can easily see this because there will be black spore dust on the caps below them, as soon as you see at least a couple dropping spores, I usually harvest the entire block at once using scissors, but if you want you can save some of the less mature ones to grow one more day. The big caps that are just starting to drop spores are perfect for making spore prints. There is no harm though in harvesting early even before any visible spores have dropped. They generally reach peak alkaloid levels early in the fruit body formation stage and less mature fruit bodies typically test slightly higher in potency as a percentage of dry weight than fully mature fruit bodies (but fully mature fruit bodies will contain more total alkaloids on an absolute basis).
I believe this TEK will prove to be easily reproducible and it is now my favorite way to grow this species (it supersedes the prior written TEK). Please leave a comment about your results if you try it. Note: One downside to using one big tote means if it contaminates you lose the whole grow, when using smaller trays if one contaminates you can throw it out and still have the others. But if you wanted to, you could still use smaller trays with the above TEK, the foil cake pans with clear lids for example, you can use the clear lid as a boat (put under the foil) and float the trays in the warm water bath, other smaller totes can likewise go into the larger warm water bath tote, so there is flexibility there if you want to have multiple smaller grows.
UPDATE: Numerous people have now confirmed that they were able to reproduce my results and have reported that the TEK worked great.
QUESTIONS:
Q: WILL this TEK work for other species besides pan cyan?
A: Yes, the TEK will work for most species, including cubes, natalensis, and pan cyan. Cubes and Nats don't need as much heat or as much fresh air, so you can keep the lid mostly covering the tote but still on top of the screen and that will allow enough fresh air. If your room temp is above 70F you don't need to plug in the aquarium heater (but may want to use it during the initial substrate colonization period to speed things up). A casing layer is also optional for cubes and nats, but it won't hurt and indeed is likely to increase yields in many cases (especially for nats). The same goes for including manure in the substrate (optional for cubes and nats but it won't hurt and may improve yields).
Q: Can I fully automate the misting?
A: Yes, a patron writes "What I do for TTBVI is put a screen over the tub and NO lid, then I put a reptile mister that runs for 10 seconds every hour, they grow beautifully." I believe that setup will work great although 10 seconds seems a bit short, I am thinking maybe 1 to 5 minutes at least, I suppose it depends on what kind of ambient humidity you have and also the model of humidifier / ultrasonic fogger you have.
Q: Can I use substrate without manure for pan cyans?
A: Yields will be lower with a coir/verm/gypsum (CVG) substrate but you can at least get some output that way. I recommend using manure though. For cubes and natalensis manure is optional but won't hurt.
Q: What is the best spawn to substrate ratio?
A: In general the more spawn you use, the faster it will fully colonize, reducing contamination risk, and the more flushes you will get. You can use anywhere from a 1:1 ratio all the way up to 1:10 with success. For pan cyan, 1:2 to 1:3 is highly effective. At 1:1.5 the pans can produce as many as 7 flushes with no contamination.
With any species that uses shallow substrates I generally don't measure the spawn ratio. My standard method is to sprinkle grain spawn over the top of the substrate until there is a thin layer of grain spawn covering the entire top surface, then I mix it all up and pat it down with sterile tongs (pressure cooked in advance). If you made a boatload of grain spawn and don't care about maximizing output or don't even have the space or equipment to maximize output, then use more spawn per tote rather than more substrate and additional totes.
Q: My pins are aborting, what am I doing wrong?
A: The key is both high fresh air exchange (rotate that tote lid to have some sides open) AND heavy misting, especially when you see pins, just water all around them 2 or 3 times per day. When you come to check on them or mist them, the tote lid should always have at least a little moisture showing on it's underside when you pick it up, if it doesn't you need to water more heavily. A normal everyday spray bottle is fine (dollar stores have them). The pins WILL withstand heavy misting, even total soaking. If you are having issues with things drying out between waterings, it would be a good idea to run a humidifier in the room but I haven't seen too many cases where that was required, maybe only in a very arid type environment.
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ATTENTION EUROPEANS! I have a new partnership with a vendor in the Netherlands called Mycotrop who put together a kit that is similar to the one above from MidwestFresh (although a little smaller size). To be super transparent, they have NOT sent me a kit to personally test & review which I generally require of all vendors but understand it is very expensive to ship large heavy objects across the ocean. So consider this a provisional endorsement but early feedback has been positive (PLEASE send me more feedback). The really cool thing about this kit is that they even include liquid cultures of my genetics (TTBVI and natalensis) so it is truly an all in one kit. Here is an affiliate link to the product: https://mycotrop.com/en/home/1628-1592-gordotek-all-in-one-kit-mycotek-version.html?affp=10366#/strains-natalensis (you can also use coupon code "GORDOTEK" to get a discount). They even separately sell my genetics as stand alone products (obviously intended only for Europeans). They had a good score on TrustPilot but apparently TrustPilot has recently removed all "bad fit" businesses from their site, which includes businesses related to drugs, I guess no exception for mushrooms which are gaining significant recognition for their legitimate use cases and even medical acceptance in many jurisdictions.
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Check out our patreon COMMUNITY chat section if you haven't yet (available on BOTH the patreon website AND the patreon APP). People are really helping one another and sharing great tips and other information. It has a wonderful, friendly, helpful vibe. Besides the FAQ, this is the next best place to look for help when you have a question. Nothing like members helping members.
Links to all of my TEKs, Videos, Trip music, and frequently asked questions with answers can be found here: https://www.patreon.com/posts/22774475 (everything is made available for FREE, I do not use pay walls, support the work only if you feel like you've benefited from it and you are able to do so). People have told me my work has helped them overcome depression, addictions, PTSD, relationship issues, direction in life, and to have important, meaningful, sometimes life changing mystical experiences. I feel honored and blessed to play a small role in this. That is my reward.
Comments
GordoTEK
Twice a day, or even three times, like when you wake up, when you get home from work, and when you go to bed, I would mist it. But truth be told, if you pour water carefully over the casing layer it can go for 3 days without any misting (I've done it more than once).
GordoTEK
Sadly they have stopped selling the kits however I just updated this post with a new vendor partner! I wish the best for our old vendor and if he ever comes back online I'm happy to add him again.
AbusedByClowns
Is Midwest Fresh Mushrooms still in business - or are they just hibernating :) ? They've been out of just about everything for 2.5 months and they don't return emails. I was hoping to get the GordoTEK Special REFILL Kit but no luck so far.
Jdub
so are you misting everyday after saturating your casing layer, or waiting until pins form to mist?
David
125 8 hrs + 2hrs for the layer with the fatties
Modmans2ndcoming
With the high nutrient substrate you're going to have a much greater risk of contamination....especially if your plan was to use manure you collect from your chickens.
JRT
Does the Amazon link to help support Gordo work in the UK?
Speedy Frog
Has anyone substituted horse/cow manure with chicken manure?
Speedy Frog
Random question: What happens if you don’t sterilise the substrate before mixing in the grain spawn?
Ryan
I know misting directly onto fruiting bodies for cubes can cause bruising and even aborts. Is there a stopping point for misting in this TEK? We mist at pinning, but do we continue all the way through fruiting to harvest?
John Slezak
MycoSage is probably so jealous.
bongoman
So as far as I can calculate, you have about 7 litres of sub, plus 1500ml of grain spawn, which is around 1:4.5 ratio. But in a container of the dimensions you recommend, it seems a very thin substrate?
bongoman
I'm trying to work with available containers I have here — what is the optimal substrate depth? I have two "myco-quarts" of spawn, so probably 1400-1500ml of grain spawn and trying to work out the best depth.
sleepycthulhu42
Hey Gordotek, do you think powdered azomite would work as a nitrogen replacement?
Rafe Danos
Hey, I saw Gordo dried his TTBVI for 3-4 hours at 145 degrees. I found this information from the cultivator cup data
mr. terpz
I've been a patreon for 2 years now everything has been amazing but why am I having trouble finding out how long we put pans in the dehydrator and what temperature for bigger harvest can you please help me I can't find it anywhere.
GordoTEK
Not if you follow my recipe, it will be perfect every time.
Greg Campbell
Do I need to PH test the casing layer?
Ben Hess
Hey Gordo , I was wondering if growing nats was a little bit more forgiving than pans and if so could you recommend a vendor ? Thanks - Ben
Wolf Bite
I'm in my first flush right now! That Nat is a FAST one! The TTBVI is just now fully filling out the casing layer. Hoping to see pins soon!
Chuckles The Cuddle Cuck
Thank you for the thorough answer
GordoTEK
https://amzn.to/3Mfaucp I wonder if these would kill scale (bugs) on cacti? Are you using to just reduce the contam load in the grow room? Probably not a good idea to have those on when people are in the room.
GordoTEK
Here are some real quotes I have saved from patrons: "I have experimented with various strains of cubes- GT, PE, APE, APEr... etc, and none of them are even in the same universe as TTBVI. Cubensis is a pretender. They should be embarrassed to call themselves anything other than inferior. On 1g of the GordoTEK pan cyan genetics I experienced the saddest, loneliest heartache imaginable while at the very same moment, I was experiencing the most pure and beautiful love possible. They existed together and it was amazing and beautiful. I spent time with my father, he has been dead for almost 20 years. I apologized for things I have done - I felt his pain. I felt the universe, I experienced the universe, I was the universe! I can't express how thankful I am to you for making this experience possible. Thank you!" "Gordo I have to share. I took 1g of TTBVI and I had already set myself up for an evening of just lying in bed with some music. 20 minutes after taking them my entire face was numb like I had been to the dentist so I lay down and just closed my eyes. Eventually my entire body became numb and my consciousness was pulled from my physical form. I was being held in the most comforting embrace looking down at the outline of my physical form. Something powerful and positive was holding me and singing in my ear but it was speaking to me. The full story is way too much, but I do know TTBVI are in some different class all their own." "I tried 0.8g of TTBVI and it turned out to be the trip of my life. My house shone everywhere. Where there were reflections, there were rainbows, everything was beautiful. I felt a true sense of well-being and even joy. Outside, each plant, each tree seemed to have its own entity. I almost felt as if they had identities and I could communicate with them."
GordoTEK
It likes mid to high 80's F (29C to 32C), but you can get by with high 70s too.
GordoTEK
https://support.patreon.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002832026-How-do-I-message-a-creator
GordoTEK
Yes, it works great with Natalensis. Nats don't need as much fresh air so you can optionally keep the lid more covered over the top and mist less often.
GordoTEK
Yes people have done this successfully.
GordoTEK
It is covered until fully colonized. After the block is colonized, it is very resistant to contamination. The key is making clean contam free grain spawn, and using enough of it for rapid substrate colonization. General rule of thumb is that the entire top surface of the subtrate should be lightly covered by grain spawn before mixing it in.
GordoTEK
I have not seen any reports (yet) from anyone substituting composted vegetable matter for manure. There is a chance this would work, but I would lean toward manure. If you try that though, let me know how it works out for you.
GordoTEK
Where is the water coming from? If it looks pretty well saturated, just skip misting that time and see how it looks on the next check.
GordoTEK
Squirt from 0.5cc to 1cc in 3 or 4 different directions (different parts of the bag).
AgapeBass
I got the Gordo Special kit. I have spore syringe, how many CCs do I use to inoculate the 4lb grain bag?
Ben Hess
Anyone having trouble with waay too much moisture inside the top tub? It’s not even completely colonized and I have to take the top off to sop up the condensation every couple days because it’s almost covered in water
Greg Campbell
Hi Gordo, I'm based in Scotland and don't have access to those Sterilite totes, I've found similar that is 55L and has External dimensions (H: 18cm W: 40cm L: 99cm) & internal dimensions (H: 17cm W: 33cm L: 92.5cm), Would this be ok? or will it not get the needed FAE with the extra height?
javier lopez garcia
Hi all, I have some questions: I have used Gordon's genetics and it has been going great but I have other ingredients more at hand: - Which compost is better, compost from organic vegetable matter? Manure compost? Cofertilized with a mixture of both? - For the substrate mix, can compost be substituted for manure? Compost of plant origin? Manure compost or a mixture of both. - I would be very grateful for your answers, it is very important for me. Thanks community!
Chuckles The Cuddle Cuck
Is contamination not a concern with Pans? I'm fairly new to this and was surprised to see such a large tub worked in what looks like an open room
NDEnvy
Could you use a Seeding Heat Mat instead of the aquarium heater in water to heat up the substrate?
Wolf Bite
Would this tek work equally well with Natalensis? I've got both TTBVI and Natalensis incubating in jars right now and want to grow both at once!
Justin Stadtfeld
How do I DM or PM you?
Jacob Young
At what temperature would you consider ideal for incubating pan innoculated grain?
Summer
Doubt it. Just get a window screen, dude.
Ben Dowell
how is the pans cyan experience compared to the cubensis experience?
Corndodger
I just ordered some UV lamps and base from Amazon. Caution, though - make sure you order the "ozone free" lamps or you'll have to actively vent your spaces. The following is what I ordered: 2 Pack UVC Sanitizer Light Bulb Ozone Free, Germicidal UV Lamp 25 Watt, 254nm Weavelength UV-C Disinfection lamp E26 Base." They're 2 for $33, or 1 for something over $23. The E26 base is an ordinary light bulb base. You'll want to use a non-plastic holder for these as UV destroys plastic - I found these ceramic bases on Amazon, too, $9.44 for 4 of them: E26 Socket, Bulb Lamp Holder,S crew Fixing for E26 (4-Pack). I hope this helps!
james Sutton
Plug your mister into a mechanical timer plug and it’ll mist on schedule for you.
james Sutton
Amazon sells UV lights for killing mold. These are used for sterilizing the area, not as a grow light.
suavocito
it's in the post
javier lopez garcia
Can anybody help me?
javier lopez garcia
Hello friends, here is a professional who wants to share science jejjeje, I also need to acquire a stamp of pan cyan.
Matrix
What is the sub ratio to grain? I’m doing smaller tubs
Gilbert R
Thank you
UnderTheRadar
Hey Gordo, Do you use hydrogen peroxide anymore? You’ve spoken about that in the past to reduce contaminants but I haven’t seen you speak about it with your most recent teks. Has that been proven ineffective or is there still a good use for it?
DRS
I've got a sauna room, but I'd never consider using bleach on the wood. I've used it on the concrete floor. I like the idea of UV if that's effective at killing mold. What is your UV source?
DRS
I think Gordo said he had a huge bag of oats that's been his go-to. He's got a video that has a technique where millet (with hulls still on) is added to boiling water then soaked for at least an hour off heat.
Joshua
What are you using for grain spawn these days?
HyuJuni
Can I use paper towel instead of a window screen?
fireday55
And, yeah, you are such a rare soul -- your generosity alone gives me such a beautiful gratitude high even without the pans!
fireday55
Far and away the smallest room available to me is a cedar wood walled far infrared sauna (dry heat, no steam, just sweat, and I air it out after use) that is 4' W X 7' L X 6.5' H. While I could wipe it down with diluted bleach water, I usually turn on a portable UV light in there and run it from the ceiling on both ends, an hour at a time for each end, as an anti-mold pre-caution/preventative (I've never smelled or seen any mold in there though). What are your thoughts about using UV light (prior to when the pans are growing) to treat the room vs bleach water?
Mr. Jeremy
I wish Gordo would answer this! I am in the same position. DId you find a good answer?
Primal Walk
Hey Gordo! I guess I can experiment, but how much contamination do you think I’d get with the coco bucket tek with horse manure added? Would I just be wasting my time (and coco and little mushie buddies)? I’ve used the bucket tek with nattys with almost no contamination and it’s easy because there’s no pressure cooker involved for the substrate nor the casing.
Roger
I noticed the Amazon link to Vermiculite is for Super Coarse Vermiculite. Is Super Coarse recomended?
Mr. Jeremy
I am planning on using a smart reptile mister (https://amzn.to/3N6LMJp) and a fan on a timer to automate my process since I travel a lot. Any comments, critics as I make sure this is the best option for me?
Mr. Jeremy
Why would a reptile mister on a timer be preferable to a humidifier on a timer?
Chad Alexander
Where can I get liquid cultures?
DRS
I'd never heard of these. I saw some on Amazon. Mixed reviews (reliability). But pretty simple...it's a little pump that gets water from your jug (or whatever) outputting to nozzles on your schedule (X times per day for Y seconds). Might need to try this and get feedback to this channel as a fork of this tek.
DRS
I can see where misting might get tedious. The previous tek where there was a humidifier connected to an on-off timer still required the once a day maintenance of filling the humidifier with water. I would suspect that if the environment was higher in humidity, you could reduce misting to once a day. It seems like if you had a "basin" (bathtub or kiddie pool), you'd be better off with the previous tek, but short of a basin, maybe the humidity could be gently increased, say to 75% or so, and that would reduce the misting requirement. Using a cool mist humidifier, you could experiment with the setting and control the humidity in a small room. You could employ an Inkbird humidity controller if the integrated control wasn't sufficient.
Pierre Robert
My Achilles heel with this tek is the 3x daily misting. I am certain that I will fail that on a regular basis and, besides, I like the idea of a humidifier doing the work for me. Any reason not to rig up a humidifier here? Seems like it could work with minimal mods to this tek
Paul
There is reptile misters that you can set on second timers. I've never tried myself but they can produce a fine mist as if you sprayed them
Jca
The new Tek and video that Gordo posted here is pretty detailed, follow it for best chance of success. Good luck!
MuteUSO
You could probably work with automated humidifiers. But this will open another can of worms - as using humidifiers constantly indoors brings with it many problems such as mold in your living space.
Adam Mullen
is it possible to contact youabou this im very intrigued
Adam Mullen
hey im a bit confused how would i go about doing this?
Adam Mullen
and to make it less messy than box lids
Adam Mullen
is there a way to set and forget this so \i dont have to mist three times a day
MuteUSO
I got two totes that are about 18cm high (or 7in). Would that work as well, or is this already too high? My guess would be that it will not make much difference, but safe is safe.
MadG
Gotcha! I will share my results soon. I used the regular CV sub I make for cubes/Nats and added 2% of that weight in dehydrated chicken manure. The pins have been slow to mature though, I am inclined to think that they don’t have enough nutes. I want to post a pic here so anyone who is interested can see but maybe I could just email/dm you?
Paul
Can you upload a photo of how fine the screen is maybe with you finger under it or a coin for size reference
GordoTEK
Yes, you could use perhaps 1/4 to 1/2 cup (60 to 120ml) of water with every misting session but I never measure it, I just make sure all parts of the casing have been hit with a good solid spray of water and the casing is damp at all times.
GordoTEK
As far as the weight of manure, I have never even weighed it out like that so I can't tell you, but its maybe 1/4 of the dry weight of the substrate, so you can do the math and figure it out. The water added is the heaviest component of the substrate (like 85% maybe?) so 15/4 = 3.75% but I'm doing a lot of guessing here 😇
GordoTEK
Yes, I try to mist around the base, but sometimes the canopy is so dense, its impossible to avoid directly misting the fruit bodies. They really don't mind this at all. In nature they are getting rained on directly, it doesn't hurt them.
Mr.Transistor
I just received your spores and the kit. They are in agar already and I’ve got everything but one more tub to give this a try. I was setting up a diaper tek setting but this is compact enough to fit on a shelf in my workshop. ✌️
GordoTEK
I think it will probably work, let us know how it goes. I don't think it could hurt to add a humidifier if you didn't want to do the hand misting.
GordoTEK
Yes, its surprisingly even. There really isn't a lot of water to warm up with this setup, so its also pretty efficient. A quick google search led me to this site which estimates electricity use of 27 kw per MONTH: https://billswiz.com/aquarium-heater-electricity-use/ (that could be around $4-5 total cost of electric for an entire grow if you happen to be growing in the winter months) 🌞👍 I like your thoughts and experiments and encourage people to try different things. Just to clarify, with my TEK, if your room temps are at least maybe 72F but preferably a bit higher, you really don't need to do any supplemental heating (aquarium heater) OR you can do it ONLY for the initial 6 or 7 day colonization of the substrate.
GordoTEK
Perlite is not a good substitute for vermiculite because it does not have the same moisture retention properties, but that said, you might get away with not using either. I haven't tried it, but coir itself is excellent at retaining moisture and slow releasing it.
GordoTEK
I have not. I'm not a big fan of LC because it contaminates easily and often you can't tell its contaminated, I prefer to work with agar and grain. But I understand that many people are into LC so I don't discourage you or anyone else from experimenting with that style. It should work fine.
GordoTEK
I hear you, I have actually already contacted them about making a new kit, so far I have not heard back yet. They also separately sell a coir/manure bulk mix that would probably work as an add on to the kit to get you that extra substrate if needed.
GordoTEK
🌞👍 I like your thoughts and experiments and encourage people to try different things. Just to clarify, with my TEK, if your room temps are at least maybe 72F but preferably a bit higher, you really don't need to do any supplemental heating (aquarium heater) OR you can do it ONLY for the initial 6 or 7 day colonization of the substrate, so that would eliminate the need for the aquarium heater and its associated energy use. Also keep in mind that the aquarium heater is intermittent, not constantly running, more like a hot water heater, and there isn't actually that much water to heat up, so its pretty efficient. A quick google search led me to this site which estimates electricity use of 27 kw per MONTH: https://billswiz.com/aquarium-heater-electricity-use/ (that could be around $4-5 total cost of electric for an entire grow if you happen to be growing in the winter months) I never flapped any tote lids or did any other type of fanning of air for this TEK/grow at all, I guess the shallow tote perhaps helps or maybe the warm rising air from the water bath below creates currents that result in air exchange inside the tote, or maybe the CO2 buildup just doesn't matter much in general? Not sure. Would be interesting to measure CO2 levels inside the tote. And I have indeed floated smaller totes/trays in the warm water bath as well, it can certainly be done that way in fact there are additional benefits for example if one tray goes bad you can toss it out without losing the entire grow. The cheap (dollar store) foil pans with clear lids work great because you can put the lid under the foil tray and it acts like a boat, keeping it afloat at all times.
Jca
On reflection, it will be confusing to cover each of our design objectives separately. Humidity, FAE, and temperature are all dependent variables, so it will be easier to discuss them in context with one and other. My primary interest here is to leverage passive physical processes, working with nature, rather than against it. Gordo accomplished this relative to FAE, which is fully passive in this new tek. The question is whether there are also passive models for humidity and temperature. I deleted my prior post on temperature, so let me rephrase briefly here. Pans have a season in nature, so should we. If you cool your home at some point during the year, that is your growing season. For air conditioning, block your room vent partially/fully to achieve a stable 78F. If you rely on fresh air for cooling, closing window(s) partially/fully will likewise work. These two options cover the vast majority of the world. If neither of these options is practical where you live, Gordo’s Tek is your best option and you needn’t read any further. What really fascinated me about Gordo’s Tek was watching him slip the inoculated substrate into the water bath to float. I thought hey, all that water, but no humidity control?!? What if the substrate tote was considerably smaller than the water bath tote, by a factor of perhaps 1:3? Then leave the substrate tote open, but close the water bath tote. In a closed system water will evaporate until the atmosphere is fully saturated, e.g. 100% RH. I did some bench top experimentation to roughly validate this. From an ambient 50% RH at 78F the tote appeared to fully saturate in about 15 min, give or take. NB: this needs to be validated mathematically and my hydrometry was crude at best. Hopefully someone out there can solve the differential equation d(RH)/d(t) for a given volume and surface area. Sadly I cannot. At this point I’m sure all would agree it would be panicide if the water bath tote remains closed after casing the substrate. One solution is a microfan, sufficient to periodically flush the head space volume of the tote with fresh air (Mouser CFM-3010B-080-267, 30mm, 2.52 CFM, 0.85w @5V, $8), coupled with a highly accurate sub-minute interval timer (Drok Interval Relay, micro usb, $14). Ideally the fan will only run for about 20 seconds every 40-60 mins. This setup is only a couple bucks cheaper than Gordo’s tek but runs on about 8 watts daily vs 2400 watts. If you are a purist and willing to spend a few extra bucks, you can go off-grid with a small battery (KBT, 1.2Ah, LiPh, $17) and a solar trickle charger (Renogy RSP10BM, 10w, $37). There are some important mods required for the water tote itself. For the substrate NOT to float around (or worse, sink!) only an inch of water is needed. A tablespoon of bleach is added to keep the water free of algae. The microfan should be mounted high on the long side corner of the tote, to avoid blowing directly on the colony. On the short side opposite the fan, and just above the water level, cut two equidistant rectangular outflow ports 2mm x 90mm. Although all these openings are small, I’d still mount a lightweight, hinged flapper valve (plastic poster board?) on both to best retain humidity off-cycle. To summarize, Gordo’s tek is passive FAE, manual humidity, and automated temperature control. What I’ve worked up is automated FAE, passive humidity, passive temperature control. In essence flipped the script. Why? Because automating FAE allows us to flush CO2 and cycle humidity at the same time. CO2 rolls off the cake pan substrate and accumulates at water level, where it is intermittently flushed out by the fan. Humidity drops to ambient levels before cycling back up to 100%, which is pretty much what happens in the wild. Wash, rinse, repeat. No 3x daily misting, no flapping of tote lids. Also with everything kept at an ambient 78F temp, there is no condensation, ever. This eliminates a vector for unwanted molds and bacteria. There are some important caveats with all this. The heavy misting, @start colonization, @casing, and @pinning, should still be manual. Passive humidity at 100% isn’t rain, so don’t throw out the spray bottle. You could also argue that matching ambient room temp to grow temp is cheating. But I also feel like it’s a crude imitation of nature. Why else do trees provide variable shade as the sun passes overhead? Pans need shade to regulate temp and humidity, even if it’s just a tall pile of dung. And I’m not promoting a ‘fire and forget’ mentality either. We still need to check our grow frequently, especially leading up to the critical heavy mist/rain events. Lastly, and most importantly, I did not write this up to put shade on Gordo’s new tek. Quite the opposite. This tek is the cleverest and simplest imitation of nature I’ve ever seen. Rather he’s inspired me, like he’s inspired so many of you, to embrace change and constantly think ‘what if’. Thank you Gordo!
Mr.Transistor
I just picked up a kit that you designed. It would be great if they upgraded it to this tek so we could one stop shop for it. Also having refills for it. Thanks for what you’re doing. I’ve got enough going on that being able to get the kit rather than sourcing everything myself is perfect.
Jca
Science is iterative. 100w will generate about +4F in a 10x10 room. Not much, difficult to measure, but only a fractio is absorbed by the grow. As for the bulb, 25w is better than 100w. Hey, we’re 75% there. Wahoo!!!😀
golden momentz
The aquarium heater is heating the room and not the grow? That’s not what my gauges (1 in the water, 1 in the room) are telling me. I don’t quite understand how using a light bulb = “zero electricity”
Firmroom
The tote filled 1/2 is roughly 5 gallons.
Hunter_4
I wouldn't overthink it, keep it damp to wet each time you mist. Pans can handle a lot of water, maybe avoid pooling of water on surface but even if that happens, should still be fine. Certain pan species do not like to me misted but BVI will be fine.
Jca
Not to disrupt anyone’s plans, but the simplicity of this tek wrt prior best practice suggests there’s a bit more meat left on this bone 🍖 I’m hitting up the literature, thermodynamics, math, and plain old bench top experimentation for inspiration. I’ll try to post major topics daily, but to start here are the design objectives at the next level; 1) FAE - Maintain variable CO2 levels appropriate to all three stages of growth - colonization, pinning, maturation 2) RH - Cycle humidity between 60-95% without loss of nominal moisture in substrate, casing, or fruits 3) Maintain ground temperature between 76 and 78 F 4) Price point at or below the current cost of materials The ultimate end state is to deliver these design objectives without ANY human intervention AND without any electricity. No daily maintenance, zero watts. Just like the old country where these little fellas hail from 😀
BigJimTim
I hope not…. I don’t think your $100 flow hood can reach the outer dimensions of the totes in any direction!
BigJimTim
I’ll add a detail to this question. Is it worth having more substrate just to bring the level of the surface up higher? What is the advised substrate depth for pan cyan? It looks like 2.5 - 3 inches….
BigJimTim
Can try ahead of time. Half fill and set to 82…. Can it keep up? Those aquarium heaters usually are rated by watts but the vendor usually says how many gallons it’s good for. Quick Google search says good for 15 gallons… so how much water is in your tote?
BigJimTim
I would not use miracle grow anything. It has added nutrients and you want the opposite for your casing layer. You want straight up peat moss, no additives at all. Buy a brick and your set for life….
Paul
Hey Gordo, Have you tried this tek using straight liquid culture to to spawn instead of grain spawn? Thanks!
Bill Murphy
Also, can I use perlite instead of verm? I have 70% coir mixed with 30% perlite for my weed grows?
Bill Murphy
If I put the aquarium heater on one side of the tote will it still heat the entire tote?
Nathan Lee
This seems way easier. Hey, Gordo! It’s been a while. Hope all is well!
Trent
I have bought two 40 qt totes but is a little shorter. And its 7.8 inches high is that going to be to high. Thought I could use the humidifier on it every 5 minutes or so and might help with air exchange? Or do you think I should just go with doing other method. Any help would be appreciate. thanks
MadG
The timing of this post is perfect as received you spores the other day and just bulked some spawn this weekend. Thanks for really simplifying an already simple Tek. I do have a couple questions: 1) Do you continue misting the sub even after it’s fruiting? Like directly on top of the fruits? 2) I used dehydrated chicken manure but only 2% by weight of the sub since I heard that it runs too hot . I’d like to know what is the ideal ratio for pans? 🙏
Mr.Transistor
Outstanding.
golden momentz
Hey Gordo, glad to see this! Your previous humidifier tek is excellent but this looks fun! You talk about misting 3 times daily here - could you speak on how wet we want with each mist? In a tote this large, how many millilitres each day would be suitable?
MuteUSO
What do you think about the consequences of using a slightly higher tote for this? Any reason to assume that it would negatively affect the grow?
Inert1
There’s a section on the back of the bag that says: “SPECIALLY FORMULATED Feeds plants for up to 3 months with Miracle-Gro® Continuous Release Plant Food.”
Inert1
Does anyone know if the Miracle-Gro Peat Moss will work in place of the Sunshine brand?
Mr. Jeremy
If I have a 50w aquarium heater, do you think that would be sufficient?
David R
Thanks Gordo for such quick response. I have reviewed all your videos. in your setup with humidifier you put your cakepan in the open bathroom tub..I do not have spare bathroom or space for martha tent so tote seems to be the only option for me.. but if I just put humidifier into tote with closed lid (maybe few holes) -- will it get enough FAE? . I am not sure if humidifier also pushes in fresh air into tote? I was thinking airbubbler will solve for both FAE and humidity . so question for you would you bet on airbubbler or humidifier for the tote setup or both?
Mr. Jeremy
I don’t have any areas I can grow in with real sunlight, only artificial light. Think basement. What do you suggest?
GordoTEK
For your circumstances, I think you might be better off with a mini greenhouse setup which can easily go for 3-4 days with no human intervention: https://www.patreon.com/posts/74545851 But if you want to try to get the tote TEK working this way, you could definitley automate the misting by using a humidifier pointed at the tote and just put that on a timer, that would be pretty similar to my original TEK: https://www.patreon.com/posts/44645256 I'm not sure that adding a bubbler to the water would be adaquate, I think a separate humidifier would be best, plus you don't want that hot water bath rapidly running out of water.
GordoTEK
Good point!
David R
gordoman...is there anyway to automate the misting part or reduce the frequencey....Is it worth trying window screen mesh with smaller holes...or adding a fish water air bubbler...how can we make above set & forget? .. I travel for work to other states and gone for 3-4 days so 3 times per day misting will not work for me...So here are few ideas I am thinking.. I am sure you have probably experimented these so let me know if they are dead ends... idea #1 - add mesh with more smaller holes...#2 add fish bubbler in the heated water tote but close the water tote with mesh from idea #1.
Jca
The coolest thing about this tek is how closely it matches natural VI conditions in pan season. Constant 70s temp for shady ground level (water bath) & humidity ‘cycling’ you get with light showers, RH moving between 75ish ambient to 95 (misting).
Zannis
cheers Gordo! just transferred your TTBVI spores to agar, gathering materials and will try this TEK in the coming days 🙏 mush love!
GordoTEK
Yes I'm still sending out prints, best genetics out there. Just private message me, in the patreon app click the envelope icon then tap below my name to send me a message.
GordoTEK
For sure, the most common cause of pan cyan overlay is not enough fresh air exchange. The species really likes its fresh air. In a tent I leave the door unzipped at the bottom 2 feet or so, and set a fan to blow in air for 5 minutes every hour. I don't think humidity can cause overlay because I've experimented with very wet high humidity grows and didn't see any problem. Likewise I doubt that too dry would cause overlay either, but it can cause pins to abort. Genetics can be a factor, I know of some genetics that are more prone to overlay (especially jamaican pan cyan cultivars) but an oddball isolate of any cultivar could be more prone to overall. I know of one person that had this problem with TTBVI or Estero that he got from me, he sent me pictures, I could not believe how bad the overlay was, it would just completely consume the casing, total white mat of mycelium on top, and would not fruit. I think I sent another print and he did a new isolation and the problem was solved. This is extremely rare, only one patron that I know of ever reported such a thing. If you are struggling with the tent, I'd just give this new TEK a try.
John
Hi Gordo! Can I get a spore print please? Looking forward to your reply
Chase Bunch
There seem to be soo many opinions on this, but what do you feel causes "overlay" in this species of mushrooms? (Using your previous Tek stil in a tent). I've read too wet, too dry, too much RH, too little RH, C02 too high, temps too high, too many nutrients in the casing, not enough FAE....
slick87rush
I have switched the grain for this run. Running the flow hood before had is something that I do. Eveything else seems to be fine... Just the pans that i've been having the issues with. I feel like it is something that im doing, but I will be mindful of the advice given... Thanks all.
Triip Daddy
Not sure if you do this already, wipe down jars with alcohol before opening, let flow hood run 15-30 mins before.
Triip Daddy
I think he means he just uses poo/coir rather than poo/straw as used before
Grannie Cats
Every other day I'm ready to chuck it all in the dumpster...I don't take it well when I can't learn how to do something well. Thank you for this blissful, no stress TEK. I was just psych-ing up to launch several batches of Pans separately and you helped me catch my breath. 😁
Byakko
Indeed it is! My original tote humidifier was a 6 head Vevor, but they are discontinued and my unit messed up being stored in tote for over a year >< guess I figured it would have little uptime to keep Rh around 90% and be fairly efficient...but starting to wonder now, as it uses a very beefy transformer
Byakko
I'd check your grain prep too, keep a control jar unopened. Some stuff is just super dirty and old. If you can find a local mill, a 10-20kg bag will last most people a very long time. My friend had a true autoclave and still had contam oats in BC
lulushroom
Thank you Gordo ! And I sent you a private message to thank you because I received the prints with the nice words ! Much love !
GordoTEK
My rule of thumb is to wait until at least some of the caps are dropping spores, you can easily see this because there will be black spore dust on the caps below them, as soon as you see at least a couple dropping spores, you can harvest the entire thing at once, or if you want you can save some of the less mature ones to grow one more day and harvest everything else. The big caps that are just starting to drop spores are perfect for making spore prints. There is no harm though in harvesting early even before any visible spores have dropped. They generally reach peak alkaloid levels early in the fruit body formation stage and less mature fruit bodies typically test slightly higher in potency as a percentage of dry weight than fully mature fruit bodies.
GordoTEK
❤️ I'm still sending out prints, best genetics out there. Just private message me, in the patreon app click the envelope icon then tap below my name to send me a message.
lulushroom
Hey guys ! Hello Gordo ! Do you harvest your pan cyans 24 hours after they drop spores or before ?
sleepycthulhu42
This is an amazing guide! I'm still an amateur with no pressure cooker but I would love some pan cyans spores if available
GordoTEK
Saw that, but the singles were like $26 and you need two, so figured the 6 pack was almost the same price 😂 but its way better to just get it from Walmart or Target for $10.
GordoTEK
A fan is not needed. Also I used no artificial lighting but the tote was near a window so indirect sunlight was enough. Probably not critical that there is a gap between the lid and screen since the lid is concave anyway. Your idea will probably work.
GordoTEK
It has to be either your clean procedure or if using a flow hood, something wrong with the filter or how its being used. Hard to pinpoint the exact problem but I do put many tips in my flowhood video. Some tips are: 1) Turn off any HVAC/fan in the house. 2) Shower and put in freshly laundered clothing just before doing the work. 3) Wear new nitrile gloves and N95 mask when doing the work. 4) Sterilize all tools, if making spore syringe sterilize the water first and let it cool in the laminar flow before using. 5) Never talk, sing, sneeze, or cough while working in front of the laminar flow. 6) Only use slow movements in the flow, keep your work area as close to the center of the flow and as close to the filter as possible without touching it. 7) Always have your work near the MIDDLE of the laminar flow filter, use wire racks to elevate the work area, sometimes its best to prop the laminar flow box up on something if working with a tall jar or bag to get the top of those at the center of the flow. 8) Ideally work in the smallest room you have available and let the laminar flow box run for 30 minutes in there with the door closed before you begin your work, this will pre-clean the air in the room of all small particles in the air. 9) Wipe down the work room with dilute bleach water solution. Another sort of unrelated to the above potential cause of contaminated grain would be improper grain prep. I show how I prep all grain in this vid: https://www.patreon.com/posts/61879619 Make sure you are pressure cooking the grain for at least 90 minutes at 15 PSI, if you are having contam problems maybe go even longer (120 mins). If you are using an instapot or other pressure cooker that is lower than 15 PSI you have to increase the times even more.
GordoTEK
Its 93% water, so around 60g dry. That's enough for a minimum of 50 deep experiences or a lifetime supply for most people 😂
GordoTEK
I agree. I'm working on a Natalensis vid.
GordoTEK
I have a kill-o-watt meter too, nice tool for measuring electricity consumption. A 10 head fogger seems like overkill for a 5x5 tent, and good ultrasonic humidifier should get the job done.
GordoTEK
Its perfectly fine to pasteurize! In my experience I've had lower contam rates with sterilyzation, but contam rates were low with both methods!
lagos tout
@gordotek The tote on Amazon is more expensive because it's a 6-pack.
David R
Gordogod..do u have a fan or something else that moves air in the room..or is that not needed...? Also how critical is that there space between the lid and window screen?...I don't have a room where I can setup like this? I was thinking of using a tote with holes and airstones in the heated water ...would that work?
slick87rush
Gordo, I had great success my first run. but since then i've had issues with my spawn jars contamination almost immeadiatly after full colonization with an agar transfer. I haven't narrowed down the source of my issue yet, but I hope to get it resolved in the next few months. ***** needed to add that I genuenly appreciate the work you put in, and how generous you are with the knowledge.
DRS
Hard to tell if one thing or the other increased the power that month. I cringed when I bought my "Kill-A-Watt", but I've used it many times to satisfy my curiosity. Click on one of Gordo's Amazon links first, then here: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
DRS
Now I'm GLAD the humidifier was out of stock on Amazon, hehehe! The fruiting surface area of this tote is equal to about FIVE 13x9 cake pans (rather than the original six), so about 100 fewer square inches of fruiting surface and also about 1/4 inch thicker using the same sized recipe of fruiting substrate. Not that any of this is a concern, and in fact could be better. Just an observation. I like that it's simpler, and doesn't require a "basin" (bath tub).
Mr. Shroom Extraordinaire
Fab
By the way, Natalensis grows beautifully on agar and is also a wonderful mushroom!
Fab
Gordo, I would also like to thank you from Switzerland for your efforts to further develop the approach and to share it!❤️
Leah Mathews
Thank you for your contribution to this chapter in history.
rhizomorph
I grow these outdoor on my balcony and they fruit. But last season the cracked because we had a long break of rain and very strong winds. That’s why I put my cakes in monotubs but I grow outdoor. I just put the lid on and water them to maintain high humidity. My tubs have drainage holes and my cakes are 80cm x 60xm x 20 cm so they are pretty big
YukonKornelius
Azure's are extremely difficult to grow indoors. I recommend an outside bed if you're going to grow those. I'm sure Gordo would agree.
Byakko
Very nice! I recently got a great deal on 27L shallow Sterilite tubs. Line on them that is perfect for sub depth. Anyone run a 10 head fogger in 5x5 tent before? Unit says it's 400w but you'd think to would only draw power when Atomizing, but power bill jumped insanely for something that's not on terribly often. Has a transformer, would that keep the e- draw up? Thinking I may place a timer in between the Rh controller lol...
jordan lab
Thanks Gordo. This all looks very doable but Sterilization is much harder than pasteurization for my setup- how much of a difference does that make? (Assuming I follow all other tek details).
Alberto Marquez
Hi Gordo! How can I get a spore print?
rhizomorph
Is it possible to make a similar tek for cold temp fruiting mushrooms like ps. Azurescens in outdoor tubs ? I Like the idea but I can’t install a heating mat and a second tote full of water when temps are 5-13C
Gary
Thanks mate. Got a link to the video? I'd like to dl it.
Frank Ward
This looks awesome. How do I get the sprint?
John Burgin
Fuck yeah!! This is gonna be so much easier! I’ve been keeping my TTBVI on plates for the last month contemplating where I was gonna build the set up for them. I can start this shit soon as I get manure now!!
Justin Loeding
Okay I shall implement this advice then let you know result :) Also note: I am just using bucket tek CVG (not allowed to use manure) for substrate/casing layer. I know yield will be lowered yet is there anything to add beside manure or what does it provide to benefit the mycelium?
biggchefff
Hahaha you bet I'm going to go return some items and get those other totes and spawn like 3 lol
GordoTEK
The species likes a LOT of fresh air, you can experiment but I would leave some significant gaps for fresh air and fan it with the lid whenever you are doing the watering. If it isn't getting enough fresh air it will overrun the casing and yields will be poor.
Mountain Myco
Sup brother! This is pretty wild eh.
Mountain Myco
I found the same thing to be true. I've been sterilizing all of my subs for a little over a year now with great success. All of my actives use the same sterilized substrate recipe as well. This is outstanding GordoTEK brother. Thank you for sharing. Your right, I did laugh at the simplicity. We're starting to find a lot of the old rules aren't actually useful rules at all. 🤷♂️ Wild!
DR. Gonzo
No more poo substrate?
Justin Loeding
Would an 6qt clearview sterilite latch shoebox work, just with lid upside down (no window screen) - maintaining 77-78 ambient room temperature with 2x daily misting?
GordoTEK
Yup, I don't ever touch anything with hands (even gloved) anymore. Sterile tongs for mixing (you can buy for only a couple dollars) and "no touch" sprinkle on the casing.
GordoTEK
I compared and found that I have lower contam rates when using coir (vs. straw) and sterilization so I don't pasteurize anymore.
Frizzlo
Thanks Gordo! Just thought to ask the question.
GordoTEK
I think both can work fine, but I have had lower contam rates when using coir (vs. straw) and sterilization so I don't pasteurize anymore.
GordoTEK
I used gloved hands in my original vid/TEK so yea it is acceptable, but still I think the sterile tong idea is probably a better way to do it. Then again, most people do the spawning in open air anyway, so it may not really matter.
GordoTEK
Not yet, but I have no reason to believe the potency would be any different, same substrate and genetics.
GordoTEK
8cm (or 3.2 inches). Most of the fruit bodies did not get tall enough to touch the screen but the interesting thing is that it doesn't seem to really matter if they grow right up to the screen, they will basically just have no where to go from there but otherwise develop normally. I also grew natalensis in this same sized tote and that species grows even taller but still I got good results (see: https://www.reddit.com/r/Psilocybe_Natalensis/comments/15d436h/comparing_cased_with_uncased_natalensis_in_same/ )
Dani
Perfect timing! 🥰 thank you!
Frizzlo
How much head space is available for vertical growth? How do you handle the screen if they grow larger than the available headspace?
InSpace 28
Can’t wait to get this going. Thank you!
dan.h
Have you tried these guys out or had them tested? I'm sure they are still as potent as ever!
Fred Flintstone
Bravo👏
Inert1
Thank you for investing the time and effort into developing this and sharing the knowledge.
Shaboy
So much gratitude for your continued experimentation, simplification and unselfish sharing of your knowledge!
John Maret
This breaks it wide open!
justin7208
This is great! Ty Gordo for sharing this
tom
Thanks Gordo, keen on trying this! I take it sanitized rubber gloves will do fine or do you insist on using tongs?
Ozsy
Gracias Gordo !!!!!
Triip Daddy
I'm glad you mentioned that you no longer lay casing with hands anymore, I think that is the reason 50% of my pan grows would trich, it would start growing right under the casing but not inside the substrate.
Triip Daddy
❤️ Appreciate you sharing this information, I never thought of sterilizing substrate that has poo 🤔 anyways I look forward to doing this method
ex-terrestrial
Amaze!! Thanks Gordo!! Q: Did you seen a difference in pasteurized vs sterilized substrate with amount of flushes or contamination?
biggchefff
Letttsssss gooooo so pumped!
GordoTEK
You are creating your own microclimate with this setup so the room temperature really doesn't matter, but if the room is already high 70s you don't need to use the aquarium heater. I have tried this in a room that was mid 60s and extremely dry and it worked perfectly. If your ambient humidity was already high, you could probably just do the watering twice a day.
GordoTEK
Yes you should be OK without it.
David R
Pans will be the new cube! thanks to Gordo ! Quick question - What is the room temperature and humidity? How does that change the misting schedule?
biggchefff
Unless it's needed to maintain humidity
biggchefff
Yessss !!!, my environment stays 76-77 I don't think I'll need tge aquarium heater lol
Charles Dunlap
I like it Mr Gordo easy simple direct 😮👍
Duy Tu
Geezus Christ. ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Brad
You rock, Gordo! Thanks for this!
Jeremy
Oh hell yeah! Thank you sir. Your timing couldn’t be better.
Darren Egbert
Awesomeness thanks!!!!
Mycoghost
Thanks you so much!!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️
